ITALY A PRESTO: Trastevere - Beyond the Tiber

15 Apr 2018 12:56 PM | Mark Ethridge

Trastevere-Beyond the Tiber

By Tommaso Gambino


The 13th district of Rome is named Trastevere for a reason. It is literally located beyond the Tiber River from what was once the center of ancient Rome. Its bohemian personality points to the unconventional life style of many of its residents.  Mixed in with the working-class locals are artists, writers, musicians, students, educators, professionals, politicians, and aristocrats. There is an “embarrassment of choice,” when it comes to nightclubs, trendy bars, restaurants and trattorias.  This extensive variety satisfies the taste of most pleasure seekers the world over.


Mangiamo a Trastevere! (let us eat in Trastevere!) Notwithstanding the nightlife, it is really all about the food, especially the Roman cuisine. As promised, a favorite local-place of mine awaits us. 

Street leading to Trattoria Da Enzo


Da Enzo, is an appealing trattoria with a wide experience of traditional Roman cuisine. The popular locale was opened in 1950 and is still going strong. Much effort is put into creating dishes with quality ingredients.  One of the best guanciale, a meat product prepared from pork cheeks and used in cooking pastas, comes from Central Italy. The Ricotta hails from near Rome’s vicinity in the province of Lazio. The olives chosen for the olive oil used in the cooking are grown without the use of pesticides.  The results show. Delizioso! 

My favorite dishes are the Burrata (Buffalo milk cheese, Stracciatella and cream) and the Coda alla Vaccinara. 


Coda alla Vaccinara

The choices and selections are genuine and served up by a youthful, happy and friendly staff  with great flair.  It’s as if friends had invited you to their home. The tables are closely arranged in the limited space adding to the camaraderie.  Often you are able to taste the dishes of the accompanying table, as the locals are often happy to share their choices. It is a blast and great fun.

Waiter at Da Enzo

Caveat, Da Enzo is very popular and hence rarely takes reservations. So, a bit of patience is needed. A hint is to get to the trattoria at 7:30 pm as first seating commences at 8:00 pm.

Waiting in line at Da Enzo

Address: Via Dei Vascellari, 29, Trastevere, Rome 

Buon Appetito!

The next posting is in 2 weeks, and we shall visit with 3 ancient Romans that changed the course of the known world. 


Ciao, Tommaso Gambino



  • 6 Dec 2019 10:07 PM | Anonymous
    Watching historical places of Italy has always amazed me but Trastevere is something that is truly amazing. Any students can click here for information. Taste of local foods which are Burrata Coda alla Vaccinara is very delicious.
    Link  •  Reply

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